How to Design a Custom Bracket
You need a bracket but can’t find it at the local hardware or superstore. Look around the room you are in. Chances are you will see a number of applications where brackets are used to hold loads that you take for granted. Desktops, shelving, countertops, even flooring are held up with bracketry of some type.
So you decide to design your own bracket. Use the following simple guidelines to formulate and design the type of bracket you will need to successfully meet your requirements.
Loading
The starting point is determining what loading you are going to subject the bracket to. We will assume that the loading that you are designing to is a static load as described below.
Static Load - A load which does not undergo a change in magnitude or direction during a measurement procedure.
Essentially it is a load that is not moving around. Basically, like a shelf with books on it. There is a very complicated formula that determines the deflection of the bracket under load. Because you have better things to do with your time Short Run Pro has made a bracket deflection calculator for you.
Click here to enter the bracket calculator.
Material
Next you want to determine what material you want to use. The standard types of material for metal brackets are:
- Carbon Steel
- Aluminum
- Stainless Steel
Use this link to go to an area that will describe the material for you:
http://www.shortrunpro.com/genEngGuidelines.aspx?tab=1
Shape, Dimensions and Holes
The shape and dimension of your bracket will obviously be determined by the shape of the item it is holding up but will also be affected by the load capabilities and the ease in manufacturing (cost control). Keep in mind that strength considerations of the part are not just functions of the material thickness but of the bracket shape. As a part has added features your strength can improve dramatically. As seen below both these bracket are of the same thickness but the first one will be significantly stronger due to the gusset (small triangular piece) welded on the bracket. This is a nice feature for keeping the profile of the bracket small yet creating a strong bracket.
Bracket with Gusset for Added Strength
Another method to increase strength is to add more profile to the part. As you can see below the Pan type bracket is significantly stronger than the same thickness L bracket because of the profile of the bracket
Added Profile for strength of bracket
By examining your application you should be able to generate basic dimensions. For example, say you need a bracket to hold a 40 lb ladder in your garage:
A simple “L” shape should do. One leg bolted to a stud and the other where the ladder is placed. The ladder is only 4” wide so 2 pieces of a 6” x 6” x 2” wide “L” bracket would work fine.
Deflection of this bracket under the 40 lb ladder will be .014” or essentially no deflection. This ¼” bracket is plenty strong to hold the weight of the ladder.
Mounting Holes
Almost all brackets have some type of mounting holes. In our case we need 2 holes on the 6” length being bolted to the stud. A ¼” lag bolt should do the trick
See screw and bolts type:
http://www.shortrunpro.com/ScrewAndHoleBoltGuide.aspx?tab=1
It makes sense to space the bolts evenly on the 6” face and in the center. Since I am using a ¼” bolt then we need the hole size to be .26. (1/4” = .25 so we need a little larger hole to accommodate the screw.) The bracket as it was described to be designed can be seen below.
If you want threads in a bracket this is called a tapped hole. This might be needed if you were mounting something into the bracket but did not have a nut on the opposite side. For instance you were mounting a piece of electronics onto a bracket and could not get a bolt on the opposite side.
If you want the head of the bolt to be recessed into the bracket (not sticking out) this is called countersinking.
Material Finish
The standard material finish is important not only from an aesthetic viewpoint but also to help in resisting rust. If the use of the bracket is outdoors you definitely will want to have a good paint job or use stainless steel.
Use the following link to our material analysis page to describe the types of finishes available for you bracket.
http://www.shortrunpro.com/genEngGuidelines.aspx?tab=1
Manufacturability
You want to control your costs and the best way to do this is to make the bracket easy to manufacture and selecting the right material.
Material Costs
Stainless and Aluminum are almost 6 times the cost of steel. If you can make it from steel and paint it then do it.
Design
OK – this isn’t easy but worth the read.
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Flat Blanks
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Most fabricators these days have the ability with lasers to produce any shape you want. Flat plates of varying design are simple these days. If you can keep it flat do so. Keep in mind that you will be paying for laser time so the more intricate the part the more time to run
Mounting Holes-
Again, keep it simple. If you can keep your hole pattern symmetrical and evenly spaced then do so. If you have special design then you have to have a hole pattern that matches. Special hole patterns can add cost to your part.
If you are using wood screws then oversize you hole about .10 to .15 for clearance (if ¼” screw use .26 hole)
If you need tapped hole (screws put into metal of bracket) then you will need to specify thread size. See Screw and Bolt Guide to help with this selection.
http://www.shortrunpro.com/ScrewAndHoleBoltGuide.aspx?tab=1
Forming-
Keep the design simple and symmetrical. L shaped brackets are the easiest to make. As you get into pan shapes and “U” shapes expect to pay more for the time spent forming the part.
Other items to consider when designing a part:
Rolled parts with large radius (above ½”) need special tooling or must be rolled. This is normally an added expense. An example of a rolled part can be seen below:
Example of Rolled Part
On a “U” bracket when the height of the part is larger than the brake then this can be an added expense because most brakes can not form this so it has to be welded. The part below gives you an idea of this design where the sides are much higher than the bottom causing special tooling or an additional operation to be done. Try to avoid this if possible.
Example of Larger Height Flanges
Welding-
We discussed adding gussets and other features that may require welding. Although a great way to improve strength it adds cost. Welding is an expensive operation for most people. Make sure you need to weld a part before designing it this way. If at all possible avoid the process of welding. In the end it is important that you minimize any special feature to ease the manufacture of the bracket. Anything you add special you will have to pay for
Conclusion
Designing a bracket is actually pretty simple and straight forward. If you follow the simple approach as shown above you will develop an easy to manufacture, cost effective and very function bracket. Short Run Pro has developed the necessary calculation tools to make the job simple.
By Bruce Toal
Technical Advisor
SRP
Short Run Pro Heavy Duty Shelf Bracket Installation Guide
Introduction
SRP Heavy Duty Shelf supports are designed to allow maximum leg room under Granite bar tops, granite islands, granite breakfast bars and other heavy shelf installations. The SRP Countertop brackets are designed for heavy loads and are built oversized to allow for heavy loading without obstructing space under countertop. The SRP countertop bracket design is the best support for safe and clean installations of heavy granite countertops. The wall mount of the SRP countertop bracket is meant for large lag screws or stud anchors to allow for secure wall support. The granite countertop should be glued to the top horizontal flange using premium contractor grade adhesive. SRP offers a professional Countertop Bracket Assembly Kit that can be purchased along with your countertop brackets. To view our kit click here.
Design
Granite countertops such as islands and bar tops should have spans supported up to 4” from the end or edge of the shelf. Each span should be supported every stud location from 18” to 24” for granite up to 2” thick. For example: A 16” wide x 96” long x 1” thick open granite bar top will use the following SRP brackets: 6 pieces of 12” L-Brackets. The brackets will each be mounted to a stud (Stud mounted from shelf to floor) with three 3/8” diameter lag screws. If mounted into concrete masonry then it is important to use concrete bolt anchors or stud anchors. Click here to view our 12" Countertop Brackets.
As a general guideline countertops that are not overhanging or have side support are heavy loading situations for brackets. In instances where the bracket is supporting the entire load of the countertop, gusset type brackets are highly recommended. You can view gusseted type brackets offered by Short Run Pro in our gallery.
Another example: a 12” wide granite counter along a 6’ wall will use 4 each x 8” L-brackets. Click here to view our 8" Countertop Brackets.
Bracket Finish
SRP Brackets are supplied in a raw finish, Powder coat paint black, zinc plate or are available in stainless steel material. Stainless steel is recommended for outside use. Powder coat black finish is durable, more concealed and excellent for use in homes, retail and commercial installations. Raw finish is easily cleaned and painted by the purchaser to match your granite or wall colors.
To see further detail about material coatings, click here.
Note
This guide has been created to give Short Run Pro customers advise on installing granite or heavy shelf bracket supports. Each shelf material type and grade is different and this information is used as a guideline. Any specific loading characteristics such as live loads and impact loads are not calculated in this guide. This information is not meant to replace state regulations or local engineering practices.
Click here to view our 8" Countertop Brackets.
Click here to view our Heavy Duty Shelf Support Brackets.
Click here to view our Heavy Duty Wall Mount Brackets.
Short Run Pro Fence Installation Guide
Here are tips and suggestions on how to build wood fences. These tips can save you time, money and effort. Read all suggestions carefully before beginning the job.
Spacing the Fence Posts
- As a rule, you should set fence posts about 6' to 8' apart. The spacing of the posts depends on the type of fence you build, the terrain, the purpose of the fence and other such factors.
- Set the corner or end post first. Then stretch a line from each corner or end post to align all the posts in between.
- Drive a stake every 6' to 8' at the exact position where the post hole is to be dug.
- Take time to measure and position the posts accurately. The appearance and the structural strength of your fence depend a great deal on the positioning of the fence posts.
Setting the Fence Posts
- Set all wood fence posts with about 1/3 of their total length buried in the ground. This is especially important on corner posts and any posts that will carry heavy weight or withstand high wind pressure.
- Use a regular post hole digger to dig the post holes. Dig the holes straight to the proper depth at each stake marker.
- You can anchor the posts more firmly by making the holes slightly larger at the bottom than at the top. Place a large stone or two shovels full of gravel in the bottom of each hole. This provides drainage to avoid excessive moisture at the base of each post.
- Use a wood preservative to treat the section of the post that will be underground. Allow the post to stand overnight in the preservative so it can become well-saturated.
- You can pack the posts with either dirt or concrete. In either case, place two or three shovels full of gravel in the bottom of each hole before the post is placed in position.
- Be sure the posts are in exact, upright position. You can check the alignment of each post with a regular level. You can also check the alignment of the posts in one direction by sighting from one end of the row of posts to the other.
- Brace each post with stakes after it is properly aligned. Keep the stakes in position until the concrete (if used) has thoroughly set. Remove the nails holding the braces and readjust the post until it is in accurate alignment.
- When the post is properly aligned, tamp it thoroughly to pack the dirt (if used) around the base of the post. Be sure you do not alter the alignment of the post during the tamping process.
- When the post is firmly in position, build a mound around it to help eliminate water standing at the post base. Slope the concrete slightly away from the post and round it off with a trowel. Tamp the concrete lightly to eliminate any air bubbles left in the mixture that can act as water pockets.
- Provide extra bracing at all corners. A corner post must carry the weight of fence stretched in two directions, so it should be set in both directions.
- Allow the posts to stand several days and settle firmly in position before adding the fence.
- The heads of posts should be rounded, capped or slanted to help eliminate accumulating water, which can cause rotting. This well-worth the effort since it allows the posts to last.
Adding Rails or Mesh to Posts
Short Run Pro makes it easy to assemble rails or a wire mesh fence to your posts. If you are using wood rails select the appropriate fence bracket to rail size and nail or screw your bracket to the post at the levels you desire.
A typical fence bracket is shown below. Click here to view SRP's Fence Brackets page.
Mesh Fences
If you are using posts to hold wire mesh, a fence bracket similar to the one shown below would be used. These types of brackets are easy to assemble by simply locating the hat bracket around the fence post and tying the mesh to the bracket via fasteners. Fast and easy.
Tool and Material Checklist
- Boards & Posts
- Post Hole Digger
- Steel Tape
- Small Axe or Hatchet
- Nails
- Hammer
- Level
- Wood Chisel
- Wood Preservative
- Power Saw
- Paint or Outdoor Stain
- Marking Pencil
- Gravel or Sand
- Hand Saw
- Work Gloves
- Ready Mix Concrete
- Tamping Rod
Note
This guide has been created to give Short Run Pro customers advise on installing fences. Each application is different and this information is used as a guideline. This information is not meant to replace state regulations or local engineering practices.
Short Run Pro Flat Panel TV Screen Mounting Guide
You have spent a lot of money on your new Flat Panel TV. Make sure you mount it in a secure fashion so your investment doesn’t end up on the floor in pieces.
There are a number of ways to mount the TV based on your personal preference and location. Use the information below as a general guideline to mount your Flat Panel TV. Short Run pro has the mounting brackets you need to securely mount your TV and enjoy it for years.
Ceiling Basics
When using a flat panel ceiling mount a ceiling flange and extension pipe are required to properly position and secure the screen. Check above your ceiling surface
for wood or metal joists. Many of our flat panel ceiling mounts include the hardware, ceiling flanges and extension pipes necessary for mounting; check to make sure
the mount you want will meet your hardware needs.
Wall Mount Basics
For wall mounting a flat panel screen there are lots of style and mobility options (flat, tilt, swivel and articulating arms), but the principle is
the same: you need a sturdy pair of wall studs to securely mount your screen. Flat Panel wall mounts are made for standard wall-stud spacings, 16" centers are standard
for domestic applications and 24" centers are standard for industrial applications. Hardware kits are available or included for wood or metal studs, and also for
solid concrete or cinder blocks. Check to make sure the wall mount you're purchasing includes the mounting hardware.
WHAT TYPE OF MOUNT DO YOU NEED?
The most popular types of flat panel mounts are wall mounts and ceiling mounts.
Wall Mounts
There are several options to choose from when wall mounting a flat panel screen. You can mount your screen flat for direct viewing, you can tilt it down
from the wall so that it is better angled for viewing when it is positioned relatively high on the wall, or you can mount the screen with an articulating arm. If
you're looking at a tilting wall mount, check to see how easily adjustable it is; some mounts allow you to tilt your screen while its mounted, others require you
to remove the screen before making adjustments.
The articulating arm is by far the most versatile of the flat panel mounts that are offered; they offer both tilt and/or swivel, in addition to a wide
range of positioning options enabled by the extension and bend of the arm.
Ceiling Mounts
Ceiling mounts are great for places where wall mounting is not an option, like when placing your screen in the middle of a big room, or in front of
a window or door. With the use of an extension pipe you can customize the height of your ceiling-mounted flat panel screen. If you purchase an adjustable extension pipe
this process is made even easier.
There are a few more alternatives for mounting flat panels: tabletop or desktop flat panel mounts and flat panel lifts are a couple of examples.
HOW DO I KNOW THAT A MOUNT WILL FIT MY SCREEN?
Once you know what kind of mount you want and where you're going to put it, the next step is to make sure that your screen and mount will be
compatible. Every screen has a hole pattern on its back to which a mount can be fastened with screws. Since screen manufacturers make a variety of hole patterns
on their flat panels, adapter plates are necessary to make sure mounts that are made to match most screens will accommodate the particular patterns that are specific
to each model. A flat panel adapter plate is just a metal plate with the same hole pattern as the screen it matches and the same hole pattern as the mount it matches.
Mount manufacturers offer lists of adapter plates that are guaranteed, when selected correctly, to perfectly fit and mount your screen.
HOW DO I INSTALL MY SCREEN AND MOUNT?
Installing your screen and mount should be done with a minimum of two people if your screen is large. Lifting the screen into place, positioning it and then
fastening it is a simple job, but it is important to have a friend available to help hold the screen while you work. We recommend securing your mount to it's
fixture in the ceiling or wall, fastening the adapter plate to your screen, and then mounting your flat panel and adapter plate to the mount itself.
Depending on your mount, cable management will be one of the final steps of the flat panel installation process. Many mounts do offer cable management
systems to conceal unruly wires.
Be sure to read the mount and flat panel installation instructions that accompany your screen and mount, and get a friend to help.
Click here to view our Speaker & TV Wall Mounts/Brackets area.
Note
This guide has been created to give Short Run Pro customers advise on mounting flat panel TV screens. Each application is different and this information is used as
a guideline. This information is not meant to replace state regulations or local engineering practices.
